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KEY NOTE TOILETRIES PLUS: May 2002

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This report covers: toiletries, wash, bathroom, hair-care, skin-care, shaving, anti-ageing, hair care, skin care, anti ageing, revitalising brands,

Companies/Brand Names covered include: The Body Shop, Boots, Colgate-Palmolive, Lever Fabergé, l'Oreal, Proctor and Gamble, Proctor & Gamble, Fabergé, Lynx, Mitchum, Nivea, Oil of Olay, Pantene, Scholl, carex Wipes, Ice Whitening, Absolue, Avon, Cosmopolitan Cosmetics, Dead Sea Laboratories, DGJ Hair Clinic, Dove Hair-Care Range, Foamburst, Hello Kitty, Revital, Revlon Ehnic Shade Range, Schwarzkopf, Sure,

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

In 2001, retail sales of personal wash and bathroom toiletries, hair-care products, skin-care products, oral-care products and shaving products totalled £3.28bn — a 2.5 percent increase over the previous year. According to National Statistics, consumers spent around £10bn on toiletries in 2001, but this definition includes cosmetics and perfumery, which are covered in a separate Key Note report (Cosmetics & Fragrances).

The skin-care and oral-care sectors saw better-than-average growth in 2001, although the growth rate in the latter sector was distorted by a particularly poor performance in 2000. Penetration levels are high across all sectors, and consumers consider many products to be necessities, so purchasing is largely unaffected by any downturn in economic circumstances.

Value growth continues to outstrip volume growth as manufacturers invest in new product development (NPD) — and as consumers prove willing to pay premium prices for products that claim to offer added benefits. Well-known brands, of which there are many, are maintained through high levels of advertising expenditure, and there has been considerable activity in the extension of brands into other product sectors. Another feature of the market, as in other consumer-goods sectors, is an attempt to relaunch `retro' products, a prime example being Mitchum deodorant.

With so many products on the market, and penetration levels so high, it is not surprising that competition is intense — particularly between the market-leading companies Unilever and Procter & Gamble. Indeed, in 2001, Procter & Gamble was forced to admit that it had employed corporate intelligence agents to rifle through rubbish bins outside Unilever's NPD headquarters in an attempt to glean information about the latter's new product launches. These two companies are among a handful that dominate the global market for toiletries. Procter & Gamble is a US company, but Unilever is Anglo-Dutch, and the UK had a favourable trade balance in 2000, exporting toiletry products of a greater value than it imported in every product category.

The toiletries industry is subject to legislation and directives concerning issues such as the safety of ingredients, labelling and animal testing, and the safety and efficacy of products are constantly under scrutiny in the media. There has been concern about the use of genetically modified ingredients and, in particular, about the danger of BSE (bovine spongiform encephalopathy) contamination through cosmetics containing bovine tissue. A spokesman from the Central Veterinary Laboratory admitted: `I am not satisfied yet that the industry is in the clear and it is us that may shoulder some blame if it is later found ladies are rubbing cow brain or placenta on to their faces.'

Key Note anticipates continued growth in the value of the toiletries market, not least because the consumer base is continually extending to both younger and older customers. Skin care is the sector expected to show the best rate of growth as technological advances promise the youthful appearance craved by all.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Executive Summary.....1

1. Market Definition.....2

REPORT COVERAGE.....2

MARKET SECTORS.....2

Personal Wash and

Bathroom Toiletries.....2

Hair-Care Products.....2

Skin-Care Products.....2

Oral-Care Products.....2

Shaving Products.....2

MARKET TRENDS.....3

Anti-Ageing Products.....3

Protection from Pollution.....3

Away from Home.....3

Milder Ingredients.....3

Methods of Production.....3

Ethnic Markets.....4

Revitalising Brands.....4

MARKET POSITION.....4

The UK.....4

Table 1: Total Consumer Expenditure and Consumer Expenditure on Toiletries at Current Prices (£m and %), 1997-2001.....5

Europe.....5

KEY TRADE ASSOCIATIONS.....5

Cosmetic, Toiletry &

Perfumery Association.....5

COLIPA.....6

2. Market Size.....7

THE TOTAL MARKET.....7

Manufacturers’ Sales.....7

Retail Sales.....7

Table 2: The UK Market for Toiletries by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 1997-2001.....7

BY MARKET SECTOR.....8

Personal Wash and

Bathroom Toiletries.....8

Table 3: The UK Market for Personal Wash and Bathroom Toiletries by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2000 and 2001.....8

Table 4: The UK Market for Deodorants and Body Sprays by Product Format by Value (%), 2001.....9

Hair-Care Products.....9

Table 5: The UK Market for Hair-Care Products by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp),

2000 and 2001.....9

Skin-Care Products.....10

Table 6: The UK Market for Skin-Care Products by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp),

2000 and 2001.....10

Oral-Care Products.....10

Table 7: The UK Market for Oral-Care Products by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp),

2000 and 2001.....11

Shaving Products.....11

Table 8: The UK Market for Shaving Products by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp),

2000 and 2001.....12

OVERSEAS TRADE.....12

Table 9: UK Overseas Trade

in Toiletries by Sector

by Value (£m), 2000.....13

Imports.....13

Table 10: UK Imports of Toiletries by Sector

by Value (£m), 2000.....14

Exports.....14

Table 11: UK Exports of Toiletries by Sector

by Value (£m), 2000.....14

3. Industry Background.....15

RECENT HISTORY.....15

NUMBER OF COMPANIES.....15

Toiletry Manufacturers.....15

By Turnover.....15

Table 12: Number of UK

VAT-Based Enterprises Engaged in the Manufacture of Perfumes and Toilet Preparations by Turnover (£000, number and %),

2001.....16

By Number of Employees.....16

Table 13: Number of UK

VAT-Based Local Units Engaged in the Manufacture of Perfumes and Toilet Preparations by Number of Employees (number and %), 2001.....17

Toiletry Retailers.....17

Table 14: Number of UK

VAT-Based Enterprises Engaged in the Retail Sale of Cosmetic and Toilet Articles by Turnover (£000, number and %), 2001.....18

EMPLOYMENT.....18

REGIONAL VARIATIONS IN

THE MARKETPLACE.....18

DISTRIBUTION.....19

Multiple Grocers.....19

High Street Stores.....19

Direct Sales.....20

HOW ROBUST IS

THE MARKET?.....20

LEGISLATION.....21

4. Competitor Analysis.....22

THE MARKETPLACE.....22

LEADING TOILETRY MANUFACTURERS.....22

Colgate-Palmolive (UK) Ltd.....22

Gillette UK Ltd.....22

Lever Fabergé Ltd.....23

L’Oréal (UK) Ltd.....24

Procter & Gamble Ltd.....25

LEADING TOILETRY

RETAILERS.....25

The Body Shop

International PLC.....25

Table 15: The Body Shop International PLC —

Financial Results for the UK and the Republic of Ireland (£m and number),

2000 and 2001.....26

Table 16: The Body Shop International PLC —

Growth in Value of Retail Sales by World Region (%), 10 weeks and 44 weeks to 5th January 2002.....27

The Boots Company PLC.....27

OUTSIDE SUPPLIERS.....28

Research and

Development.....28

Raw Materials.....29

Own-Label Products.....29

Processing Machinery.....29

Aerosols.....29

Packaging.....29

ADVERTISING AND

PROMOTION.....30

Main Media Expenditure.....30

Table 17: Main Media Expenditure on Toiletries

by Sector (£000),

Year to December 2000

and 2001.....30

Advertising to Ethnic Communities.....31

Trade Exhibitions.....32

UK Events.....32

Overseas Events.....32

Trade Publications.....32

Soap, Perfumery &

Cosmetics.....32

5. Brand Strategy.....33

THE LEADING BRANDS.....33

Personal Wash and

Bathroom Toiletries.....33

Deodorants and

Body Sprays.....33

Hair-Care Products.....33

Skin-Care Products.....33

Oral-Care Products.....33

Shaving Products.....34

BRAND ADVERTISING.....34

Main Media Expenditure.....34

Personal Wash and

Bathroom Toiletries.....34

Table 18: Personal Wash and Bathroom Toiletries Receiving the Highest Levels of Main Media Expenditure (£000), Year to December 2001.....34

Hair-Care Products.....35

Table 19: Hair-Care Products Receiving the Highest Levels of Main Media Expenditure (£000), Year to December 2001.....35

Skin-Care Products.....36

Table 20: Skin-Care Products Receiving the Highest Levels of Main Media Expenditure (£000), Year to December 2001.....37

Oral-Care Products.....37

Table 21: Toothpastes and Polishes Receiving the Highest Levels of Main Media Expenditure (£000), Year to December 2001.....37

Shaving Products.....38

Table 22: Shaving Preparations Receiving the Highest Levels of Main Media Expenditure (£000), Year to December 2001.....38

Recent Promotions.....38

Boots Advantage

Card Scheme.....38

Carex Wipes.....38

Girl’s Health Pack.....38

Ice Whitening.....39

Lever Fabergé.....39

Lynx.....39

Mitchum.....39

Nivea.....39

Oil of Olay.....40

Pantene.....40

Scholl.....40

Sponsorship.....40

Complaints.....40

Advertising Standards

Authority and Organics.....40

Advertising Standards

Authority and Tesco.....41

Changing Agencies.....41

NEW PRODUCTS.....41

40+.....41

Absolue.....41

Avon Products.....41

Colgate-Palmolive.....41

Cosmopolitan Cosmetics.....42

Dead Sea Laboratories.....42

DGJ Hair Clinic.....42

Dove Hair-Care Range.....42

Foamburst.....42

Gillette.....42

Hello Kitty.....42

L’Oréal.....43

Marks & Spencer.....43

Nivea.....43

Olay Beauty

Imaging System.....43

Revital.....43

Revlon Ethnic Shade Range.....43

Schwarzkopf.....43

Skin Wisdom.....44

Sure.....44

BRAND EXTENSIONS.....44

6. Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities

and Threats.....45

STRENGTHS.....45

WEAKNESSES.....45

OPPORTUNITIES.....46

THREATS.....46

7. Buying Behaviour.....47

AVERAGE WEEKLY

HOUSEHOLD EXPENDITURE.....47

Table 23: Average Weekly Household Expenditure on Toiletries by Category (£), 2000/2001.....47

By Gross Income

Decile Group.....47

Table 24: Average Weekly Household Expenditure on Toiletries by Gross Income Decile Group (£),

2000/2001.....48

By Age of

Head of Household.....48

Table 25: Average Weekly Household Expenditure on Toiletries by Age of Head of Household (£),

2000/2001.....48

By Region.....49

Table 26: Average Weekly Household Expenditure on Toiletries by UK Country (£), 2000/2001.....49

CONSUMER PENETRATION.....49

Personal Wash and

Bathroom Toiletries.....49

Bath Oils, Liquids and

Additives.....49

Table 27: Frequency of Use

of Bath Oils, Liquids and Additives by Sex

(% of users), 2001.....50

Shower Gels.....50

Table 28: Frequency of Use

of Shower Gels by Sex

(% of users), 2001.....50

Talcum Powder.....50

Table 29: Frequency of Use

of Talcum Powder by Sex

(% of users), 2001.....51

Deodorants.....51

Hair-Care Products.....51

Shampoo.....51

Table 30: Frequency of Use

of Shampoo by Sex

(% of users), 2001.....52

Conditioners.....52

Table 31: Frequency of Use

of Conditioners by Sex

(% of users), 2001.....52

Hair Spray.....52

Table 32: Frequency of Use

of Hair Spray by Sex

(% of users), 2001.....53

Hair Gels, Mousses and

Sprays.....53

Table 33: Frequency of Use

of Hair Gels, Mousses and Sprays by Sex (% of users), 2001.....53

Hair Colourants, Bleaches and Lighteners.....53

Table 34: Frequency of Use

of Hair Colourants, Bleaches and Lighteners (% of women users), 2001.....54

Skin-Care Products.....54

Suntan Lotions,

Oils and Creams.....54

Table 35: Frequency of Use

of Suntan Lotions, Oils and Creams by Sex (% of users), 2001.....54

Shaving Products.....54

Shaving Foam, Gel,

Cream and Sticks.....54

Table 36: Frequency of Use

of Shaving Foam, Gel, Cream and Sticks (% of men users), 2001.....55

8. Current Issues.....56

MERGERS AND

ACQUISITIONS.....56

Lever Brothers and

Elida Fabergé.....56

Procter & Gamble

Acquires Clairol.....56

Superdrug Stores.....56

BOARD CHANGES.....56

The Body Shop

International PLC.....56

The Boots Company PLC.....57

Cosmetic, Toiletry &

Perfumery Association.....57

The Gillette Company.....57

Lever Fabergé.....57

Remington Products

Company.....57

Sara Lee Corporation.....58

MATTERS AFFECTING

THE INDUSTRY.....58

Grey-Market Imports.....58

Counterfeiting.....58

Corporate Espionage.....59

Animal Testing.....59

BSE.....59

Banana Wars.....60

Medical Applications.....60

Toxins.....60

9. The Global Market.....61

INTRODUCTION.....61

THE WESTERN EUROPEAN MARKET.....61

Retail Sales.....61

Table 37: The Retail Market for Personal-Care Products in Selected EU Countries (am at rsp, % and a per capita), 1999.....61

Table 38: The EU Retail Market for Personal-Care Products by Sector by Value (%), 1999.....62

Manufacturers’ Sales.....62

GLOBAL OPERATORS.....62

Avon Products

Incorporated.....62

Table 39: Avon Products Incorporated — Net Sales by World Region (%), 2001.....63

The Body Shop

International PLC.....63

Americas.....63

Table 40: The Body Shop International PLC — Financial Results for the US and Canada (£m and number), 2000 and 2001.....63

Europe and Middle East.....64

Table 41: The Body Shop International PLC — Financial Results for Europe and the Middle East (£m and number), 2000 and 2001.....64

Asia Pacific.....65

Table 42: The Body Shop International PLC — Financial Results for Asia Pacific

(£m and number),

2000 and 2001.....65

The Boots Company PLC.....65

Colgate-Palmolive

Company.....66

The Gillette Company.....66

L’Oréal SA.....66

Table 43: L’Oréal — Cosmetics Sales by World Region (Œm), 2001.....67

The Procter & Gamble

Company.....67

Table 44: The Procter & Gamble Company — Worldwide Net Sales and

Pre-Tax Profit ($m), Year Ending 30th June 1999

and 2000.....67

Table 45: The Procter & Gamble Company — Worldwide Sales by Global Business Unit ($bn), 2000.....68

Remington Products

Company.....68

Sara Lee Corporation.....68

Unilever Group.....69

Table 46: Unilever Group — Financial Results by World Region (£bn), 2000.....69

10. Forecasts.....70

INTRODUCTION.....70

Population Projections.....70

Table 47: The Projected UK Population by Age Group (000), 2002 and 2007.....70

The Economic Climate.....70

FORECASTS 2002 TO 2006.....71

Table 48: The Forecast UK Market for Toiletries

by Sector by Value at

Current Prices (£m at rsp),

2002-2006.....71

MARKET GROWTH.....72

Figure 1: The UK Market for Toiletries by Value at

Current Prices (£m at rsp),

1997-2006.....72

11. Company Profiles.....73

The Body Shop

International PLC.....74

The Boots Company PLC.....76

Colgate-Palmolive (UK) Ltd.....78

Gillette UK Ltd.....80

Lever Fabergé Ltd.....82

L’Oréal (UK) Ltd.....84

Procter & Gamble Ltd.....86

12. Company Financials.....88

13. Further Sources.....90

Associations.....90

Publications.....90

Directories.....91

General Sources.....92

Bonnier Information Sources.....93

Government Publications.....94

Other Sources.....95

Understanding TGI Data.....96

Key Note Research.....98

The Key Note Range

of Reports.....99

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