ISBN 1-85765-890-6

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Executive Summary

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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

In 1998, the UK market for toiletries, cosmetics and perfumery was worth an estimated £10.79bn, of which colour cosmetics and fragrances accounted for £1.16bn.

Growth has been positive but slight over the last year, owing to a continuing shift away from the use of colour cosmetics by women, and a greater growth in body sprays and lower-cost alternatives to perfumes.

Industry concentration is continuing. Small and under-performing brands continue to be sold off by major companies, and 1998 saw the failure of a high profile company, Yardley of London.

The major international groups are seeking to consolidate their global brands. The latest examples are Procter & Gamble's launch of colour cosmetics under the Oil of Ulay brand, and the international launch of the Physio Sport range by Elida Fabergé.

Although the use of cosmetics is still tending to decrease, fashions have once more turned to a more `colourful' look, which has benefited lipsticks and nail colours. New pigments and technologies are resulting in longer-lasting products in exotic finishes such as metallics and lustres, and even a holographic effect for nail varnish.

Fragrances are moving again to `fantasy' notes, aided by technical developments in synthetic essences and non-botanicals.

Key Note predicts that the cosmetics and fragrances market will grow to £1.37bn by the year 2003. The abolition of duty-free sales in 1999, and the introduction of the Euro, may affect sales and make supply and pricing a major issue for international brands. The underlying trend is for modest growth, but in the short term, profit and sales growth could be volatile.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Executive Summary

Market Definition

COSMETICS

FRAGRANCES

PRODUCT BACKGROUND

MARKET POSITION

MARKET TRENDS

Table 1: Consumer Expenditure on Toiletries, Cosmetics and Perfumery at Current Prices (£m), 1994-1998

Market Size

THE TOTAL MARKET

MARKET SECTORS

UK MANUFACTURERS' SALES

UK CONSUMPTION

FOREIGN TRADE

Table 2: The Cosmetics and Fragrances Market by Value (£m), 1995-1998

Table 3: The Cosmetics and Fragrances Market by Price Band (£m), 1995-1998

Table 4: The Cosmetics Market by Sector (£m), 1995-1998

Table 5: The Face Make-Up Market by Sector (£m), 1995-1998

Table 6: The Eye Make-Up Market by Sector (£m), 1995-1998

Table 7: The Female Fragrance Market by Sector (£m), 1995-1998

Table 8: The Male Fragrance Market by Sector (£m), 1995-1998

Table 9: UK Manufacturers' Sales of Cosmetics and Fragrances (£m), 1996 and 1997

Table 10: Apparent UK Consumption of Cosmetics and Fragrances (£m), 1996 and 1997

Table 11: Imports of Cosmetics and Fragrances (£m), 1996 and 1997

Table 12: Exports of Cosmetics and Fragrances (£m), 1996 and 1997

Table 13: Perfumes and Eaux de Toilette - Average Price per Kilogram (£), 1996 and 1997

Industry Background

RECENT HISTORY

INDUSTRY CONCENTRATION

DISTRIBUTION

BUSINESS UNITS

TRADE ASSOCIATIONS

ADVERTISING AND PROMOTION

Table 14: Leading Cosmetics Distributors by Turnover (£m), Year Ending 1996/1998

Table 15: Manufacturers of Perfumes and Toilet Preparations by Turnover (£000 and number of companies), 1997 and 1998

Table 16: Manufacturers of Perfumes and Toilet Preparations by Number of Employees, 1997 and 1998

Brands

DEVELOPMENTS

BRANDS

ADVERTISING - LEADING SPENDERS

Table 17: Selected New Cosmetic and Fragrance Launches in 1997/1998

Table 18: The Top Ten Advertised Brands Across All Sectors (£000), Year to June 1997 and 1998

Table 19: The Top Ten Advertised Cosmetics Brands (£000), Year to June 1997 and 1998

Table 20: The Top Five Advertised Female Fragrances (£000), Year to June 1997 and 1998

Table 21: The Top Five Advertised Male Fragrances (£000), Year to June 1997 and 1998

Competitor Analysis

THE MARKETPLACE

MARKET LEADERS AND THEIR BRANDS

ADVERTISING AND PROMOTION

Table 22: Leading UK Cosmetics and Fragrances Manufacturers by Turnover (£m), Year Ending 1996/1998

Table 23: Leading Cosmetics Import/Distribution Companies by Turnover (£m), Year Ending 1997

Table 24: Advertising Expenditure by Sector (£000), Year to June 1995-1998

Table 25: Advertising Expenditure by Brand (£000), Year to June 1998

Table 26: Advertising Expenditure by Group/Holding Company, Year to June 1998

Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats (SWOT)

STRENGTHS

WEAKNESSES

OPPORTUNITIES

THREATS

Buying Behaviour

FOUNDATION

FACE POWDER

BLUSHER

LIPSTICK

EYE MAKE-UP

NAIL VARNISH

FEMALE FRAGRANCES

MALE FRAGRANCES

THE FEMALE FRAGRANCE MARKET BY BRAND

Table 27: Usership of the Main Types of Cosmetics ( percent of women/men who are 'medium' users), 1996 and 1998

Table 28: Foundation/Face Make-Up Consumer Profile ( percent of women), 1995, 1996 and 1998

Table 29: Face Powder Consumer Profile ( percent of women), 1995, 1996 and 1998

Table 30: Blushers/Highlighters Consumer Profile ( percent of women), 1995, 1996 and 1998

Table 31: Lipstick Consumer Profile ( percent of women), 1995, 1996 and 1998

Table 32: Eye Make-Up Consumer Profile ( percent of women), 1995, 1996 and 1998

Table 33: Nail Varnish Consumer Profile ( percent of women), 1995, 1996 and 1998

Table 34: Perfume/Eau de Toilette Consumer Profile ( percent of women), 1995, 1996 and 1998

Table 35: Male Fragrance Consumer Profile ( percent of men), 1995, 1996 and 1998

Table 36: Fragrance Brand Usership by Age ( percent of women surveyed), 1998

Table 37: Fragrance Brand Usership by Socio-Economic Group ( percent of women surveyed), 1998

Table 38: Index of Fragrance Brand Usership by Age, 1998

Table 39: Index of Fragrance Brand Usership by Socio-Economic Group

Outside Suppliers to the Industry

PIGMENTS

DELIVERY SYSTEMS

FRAGRANCES

Table 40: Leading Fragrance and Essence Producers by Turnover (£m), Year Ending 1997/1998

Current Issues

LEGISLATION AND REGULATION

GREY IMPORTS

THE ABOLITION OF DUTY-FREE SALES

BSE

Forecasts

FORECASTS 1999-2003

MARKET DEMAND

EUROPE AND THE UK

TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENTS

Table 41: The Forecast Cosmetics and Fragrances Market by Sector (£m), 1999-2003

Market Growth

Figure 1: The UK Market for Cosmetics and Fragrances (£m), 1995-2003

Company Profiles

INTRODUCTION

DEFINITIONS

FURTHER INFORMATION

Company Financials

Further Sources

ASSOCIATIONS

PERIODICALS

DIRECTORIES

GENERAL SOURCES

HBI UK INFORMATION SOURCES

GOVERNMENT PUBLICATIONS

OTHER SOURCES

Text © 1998 Key Note

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