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The UK market for colour cosmetics and fragrances was worth £1.18bn in 1999. Growth in the market was slow during the year, and the fine fragrance sector was badly affected by the abolition of duty-free sales within the EU. On a positive note, the consumer base is widening, as children become conscious of their appearance at an ever-younger age, men are more aware of appearances (largely due to men’s lifestyle magazines) and older women are retaining a pride in their appearance for longer. However, there is no denying that teenagers and young adults are the heaviest users of cosmetics and fragrances, and the declining numbers of people in this age range will not benefit the industry. Although there used to be a strict divide between budget and premium products, a middle market is now emerging, where selective distribution has been bypassed and improved formulations introduced that are affordable to the mass market. Consumers expect products with added value, such as the inclusion of ingredients that have a biological effect on the skin, and manufacturers are delivering. Recent years have also seen a plethora of products claiming to have anti-ageing or age-reversing properties aimed at the lucrative over-40 age group. The middle market has been promoted by changes in distribution. Major supermarkets, for example, now have stand-alone health and beauty counters, as well as selling toiletries in the aisles. Staffed by trained consultants, these counters offer quality ranges at prices more affordable than those of traditional over-the-counter (OTC) suppliers. Tesco’s own-brand range has been particularly highly acclaimed, while ASDA has been among those criticised by the perfume houses for selling fine fragrances obtained from the grey market at discount prices. Manufacturing is largely dominated by multinationals such as Procter & Gamble Company, L’Oréal SA and Unilever PLC. While some designer names are retained by independent fashion houses — such as Chanel — many, including Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, are licensed to these large operators. It is also frequently highlighted in the media that UK consumers pay more for some items than their European counterparts. Key Note forecasts that the market value for cosmetics and fragrances will reach £1.26bn by 2004. Market growth is likely to be badly hindered in the short term by the fall in duty-free sales within Europe, the effect of which has been much more severe and swift to hit than expected.

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Last updated by Jacob van Eldik 19th July 2000