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KEY NOTE FOOTWEAR : April 2002

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This report covers: footwear,non-consumer footwear,consumer footwear,mens',womens',childrens',sports,leisure,own label,outdoor brands,fashion branding trends,specialist footwear,

Companies/brands covered include: C & J Clark,R Griggs,The Shoe Studio Group,Stylo,adidas,Nike,Pentland,Reebok,Dr Martens,

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

The UK footwear market had a good year in 2001. Following several years of declining market values, spending on consumer footwear was up by 5.5 percent on 2000. Recently, the supply sector has been fairly stable, but some consumers are now shifting towards more expensive designer and 'quality' footwear, which accounts for the value growth in a mature market where volumes of sales are fairly constant.

Footwear is a basic necessity, however, its share of total consumer spending has fallen from 1 percent to 0.7 percent over the past 10 years. The main reason for this is falling prices, with the typical pair of shoes bought in 2002 costing 8 percent less than they would have cost in 1995. Inflation has generally been low in this period, the lower footwear prices have come from the shift to imports from low-cost labour countries. This has seen imports take a share of over 90 percent of the UK market.

British manufacturing has been badly damaged by the rise of imports, and the industry has become used to this over many decades. The remaining larger manufacturers are led by two family-owned companies, C&J Clark Ltd ('Clarks' brand) and R Griggs & Co. Ltd ('Dr Martens'). However, many smaller companies continue to compete in specialist products, (e.g. safety) and hand-made, expensive footwear. Many of these are heavily geared towards exporting.

The UK also has a growing number of 'designer' companies, the main business of which is to design and market fashionable footwear, and then contract out production and distribution, usually overseas. This process is also typical of the world's largest companies, which are led by the sports footwear giants Nike Incorporated, Reebok International Ltd and adidas-Salomon AG. Sports shoes used for casual wear account for over a quarter of the market, reflecting the age of 'dressing down'. In response to a field survey conducted especially for this report, just under half of the adults interviewed had bought each of the three sports brands at some time in their lives.

For the next 5 years, Key Note anticipates a better period of growth in UK retail sales than the late 1990s. The High Street is likely to remain fragmented in terms of distribution; a significant factor since the mid-1990s has been the replacement of the High Street empire of British Shoe Corporation Ltd with a number of smaller multiples.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Executive Summary	1
1. Market Definition	2
REPORT COVERAGE	2
MARKET SECTORS	2
Non-Consumer Footwear	2
Consumer Footwear	2
MARKET TRENDS	3
Import Penetration	3
Exports of Specialist Footwear	4
Retail Prices Under Strong Pressure	4
Casual Dress Changes	4
Distribution BroadensOut	4
MARKET POSITION	5
The UK	5
Table 1: Total UK Consumer Expenditure and the Footwear Market (£bn, £m at rsp and percent), 1992-2001	5
Overseas	5
KEY TRADE ASSOCIATIONS	6
British Footwear Association	6
Other Relevant Organisations	6
2. Market Size	7
THE TOTAL MARKET	7
Table 2: The UK Footwear Market by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp and percent), 1997-2001	7
Table 3: The UK Footwear Market by Value at Current and Constant 1995 Prices (£m at rsp and percent), 1997-2001	8
BY MARKET SECTOR	9
Women’s, Men’s and Children’s Footwear	9
Table 4: Retail Sales of Women’s, Men’s and Children’s Footwear by Value at Current Pric&horbar;es (£m at rsp and percent), 1997, 1999 and 2001	10
Table 5: UK Family Expenditure on Footwear by Age of Head of Household (£ and index all households=100), 2000	11
Sports and Leisure Footwear	11
Table 6: The Retail Sales of Sports Footwear by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp,and percent), 2001	12
OVERSEAS TRADE	13
UK Manufacturing Output	13
Table 7: UK Manufacturers’ Sales of Footwear by Value (£m at msp and percent), 1996-2000	14
Imports and Exports	14
Table 8: UK Imports and Exports of Footwear by Value (£m), 1991-2001	15
Trading Partners	15
Imports	15
Table 9: UK Imports of Footwear by Country of Origin by Value, (£m and percent), 1998-2000	16
Exports	16
Table 10: UK Exports of Footwear by Country of Destination by Value (£m and percent), 1998-2000	17
3. Industry Background	18
RECENT HISTORY	18
NUMBER OF COMPANIES	19
Table 11: Number of VAT-Based Enterprises Engaged in the Manufacture of Footwear by Turnover Sizeband (£000), 2000 and 2001	19
EMPLOYMENT	20
Table 12: Number of VAT-Based Local Units Engaged in the Manufacture of Footwear by Employment Sizeband (number of employees), 2000 and 2001	20
REGIONAL VARIATIONS IN THE MARKETPLACE	21
DISTRIBUTION	21
Table 13: The Purchase of Footwear by Type of Outlet by Value ( percent),1997 and 2000	22
Table 14: Retail Distribution Shares for Footwear by Value ( percent), 1995 and 2001	23
Specialist Footwear Outlets	23
Table 15: Selected Leading Footwear Specialists by Number of Sites, 2001	24
Non-Specialist Outlets and Home Shopping	25
HOW ROBUST IS THE MARKET?	26
LEGISLATION	27
4. Competitor Analysis	28
THE MARKETPLACE	28
Specialisation	28
Integration	29
Globalisation	29
MARKET LEADERS	30
Table 16: Selected Leading UK Footwear Manufacturers and Distributors by Turnover (£m), 1999, 2000 and 2001	30
C&J Clark Ltd	31
R Griggs Group Ltd	32
The Shoe Studio Group Ltd	33
Stylo PLC	33
OTHER FOOTWEAR COMPANIES (NON-SPORTS)	34
SPORTS FOOTWEAR COMPANIES	36
adidas (UK) Ltd	36
Nike (UK) Ltd	36
Pentland Brands Ltd	36
Reebok International Ltd	37
OTHER SPORTS FOOTWEAR COMPANIES	37
OUTSIDE SUPPLIERS	37
Far East	38
Europe	38
ADVERTISING AND PROMOTION	38
Table 17: Main Media Advertising Expenditure on Footwear (£000), Years Ending December 2000 and 2001	38
Exhibitions	40
5. Brand Strategy	41
INTRODUCTION	41
RESEARCH findings	41
Table 18: Footwear Brands Ever Bought ( percent of adults), 2002	42
General and Own-Label Footwear Brands	43
By Age	43
By Sex	43
By Social Grade	43
Table 19: General and Own-Label Footwear Brands Ever Bought by Sex, Age, Social Grade and Region ( percent of adults), 2002	44
Sports and OutdoorBrands	45
By Sex	45
By Age	46
By Social Grade	46
Table 20: Sports and Outdoor Brands Ever Bought by Sex, Age, Social Grade and Region( percent of adults), 2002	46
Fashion Footwear Brands	47
By Sex	47
By Age	47
By Social Grade	48
By Social Region	48
Table 21: Fashion Footwear Brands Ever Bought by Sex, Age Social Grade and Region ( percent of adults), 2002	49
LEADING BRAND RANGES	50
Table 22: Leading Footwear Brands and Their Owners, 2002	51
C&J Clark	52
Dr Martens	53
Other British Footwear Brands	53
6. Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats	54
STRENGTHS	54
WEAKNESSES	54
OPPORTUNITIES	54
THREATS	55
7. Buying Behaviour	56
CONSUMER PENETRATION	56
Table 23: Amount Spent on Shoes for Adults in the Past 12 Months ( percent of adults), 2001	56
By Sex	57
By Age	58
By Social Grade	58
By Region	58
SHOPPING PREFERENCES	58
Table 24: Retail Outlets Used for Buying Clothing and Footwear
( percent of adults), 2001	59
By Age	60
Table 25: Penetration of Retail Outlets Used to Buy Clothing and Footwear by Age ( percent of adults), 2001	60
By Social Grade	60
Table 26: Penetration of Retail Outlets Used to Buy Clothing and Footwear by Social Grade ( percent of adults), 2001	61
8. Current Issues	62
OUTPUT ANDEXPORTING	62
OPTIMISTIC RETAILNEWS	62
FASHION AND BRANDING TRENDS	62
CORPORATE ACTIVITY	63
CHINA’S WORLD TRADE ORGANIZATIONMEMBERSHIP	63
EURO TRANSITION	63
9. The Global Market	64
INTRODUCTION	64
IMPORT AND EXPORTRATIOS	64
Table 27: Import and Export Ratios for UK Footwear by Value ( percent),1994-2001	64
Global Fashions and
Brands	65
Influence of the US Market and the ‘Eurozone’	66
Development of the
Far East ‘Hub’	66
10. Forecasts	67
Manufacturing and Imports	67
The Retail Market	67
MARKET GROWTH	67
FORECAST 2002 TO 2006	68
Figure 1: The Forecast UK Footwear Market by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 1997-2006	68
Table 28: The Forecast UK Footwear Market by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2002-2006	69
FUTURE TRENDS	69
Specialist Areas	69
Republic of China	69
US Market	69
11. Company Profiles	71
adidas (UK) Ltd	72
C&J Clark Ltd	74
R Griggs & Co. Ltd	76
Nike (UK) Ltd	78
Pentland Brands Ltd	80
Reebok International Ltd	82
The Shoe Studio Group Ltd	84
Stylo PLC	86
12. Company Financials	88
13. Further Sources	91
Associations	91
Publications	92
Directories	93
General Sources	93
Bonnier InformationSources	94
Government Publications	95
Other Sources	96
Understanding TGI Data	97
Number, Profile, Penetration	97
Social Grade	98
Standard Region	98
Key Note Research	99
The Key Note Range of Reports	100

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