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KEY NOTE Report : LINGERIE : September 2004

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This report covers: lingerie, hosiery, corsetry,

Companies and Associations covered include: Martin International, Precis, Sara Lee Intimates, Sherwood Group, Unity Brands, William Hollins, Agent Provacateur, Bhs, Marks and Spencer, Silhouette,

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

Key Note estimates that, in 2003, the total retail market for lingerie (including hosiery, corsetry and lingerie), was valued at £2.27bn. Between 2002 and 2003, the total market is estimated to have grown by 7.9%.

As mentioned above, this report analyses the UK market for women's underwear in terms of three sectors, hosiery, corsetry and lingerie. All three sectors' total share has remained static and growth performance very similar.

The market for ladies' lingerie in Britain is a highly developed, mature market. Opportunities for growth are relatively limited because of the diversity of product offerings and brands, and because of the ageing profile of the UK's population.

During the 1980s and early 1990s, the hosiery sector was highly innovative in terms of using and introducing new fibres and new products. However, in the early part of the 21st century, the sector is lacking in new ideas. The corsetry sector has also experimented with radical design changes, e.g. the Bioform bra, but like the lingerie sector — whose main development plan has been to extend the luxury end of its market — changes to the designs are rare and innovation is only used in terms of textiles and finishings.

In the UK, growth in the lingerie market is likely to be steady, but slow. This is because brand saturation is having a downward effect on prices and the ageing UK population will not help expand the market's main customer target — young women. Nevertheless, growth will be steady and will be steered by economic stability. The total retail market for lingerie is forecast to grow by 12.3% between 2004 and 2008.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Executive Summary	1
1. Market Definition	7
REPORT COVERAGE	7
MARKET SECTORS	7
Hosiery	7
Corsetry	7
Lingerie	7
Market trends	8
Fashion Retailers Getting into
Lingerie	8
Underwear is the New Outerwear	8
E-Commerce and Internet Marketing for Lingerie	8
Celebrity Brands Boost
Competition	8
G-Strings Giving Way to
Boy-Cut Briefs	8
ECONOMIC TRENDS	8
Table 1: UK Resident Population Estimates by Sex (000),
Mid-Years 1999-2003	9
Table 2: Household Disposable
Income (£), 1998-2002	9
Market Position	10
The UK	10
Table 3: The Total UK Lingerie Market by Value
at Current Prices (£m at msp),
1998-2002	10
Overseas	10
2. Market Size
THE TOTAL MARKET	11
Table 4: The Total UK Hosiery, Corsetry and Lingerie Market
by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 1999-2003	11
By Market Sector	11
Hosiery	11
Table 5: The Hosiery Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp and %), 1999-2003	12
Corsetry	12
Table 6: The Corsetry Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp and %), 1999-2003	12
Lingerie	13
Table 7: The Lingerie Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp and %), 1999-2003	13
OVERSEAS TRADE	13
General Overview	13
Imports	13
Table 8: UK Imports of Lingerie by Sector by Value at Current Prices
(£m), 2002	14
Exports	14
Table 9: UK Exports of Lingerie by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m), 2002	15
3. Industry Background	16
RECENT HISTORY	16
INDUSTRY SYNOPSIS	16
Table 10: Average Financial Results for Companies Engaged in the Manufacture of Lingerie by Turnover and Pre-Tax Profit (£000, £ and %), Latest Financial Year	17
Number of Companies	17
Table 11: Number of UK VAT-Based Enterprises Engaged in the Manufacture of Wearing Apparel, Dressing and Dyeing of Fur
by Turnover Sizeband (£000),
2003	18
Employment	18



Table 12: Number of Employees Involved in the Manufacture of Underwear (number of employees), 1998-2002	18
Table 13: Number of UK VAT-Based Local Units Engaged in the Manufacture of Wearing Apparel, Dressing and Dyeing of Fur by Employment Sizeband (number of employees), 2003	20
REGIONAL VARIATIONS IN THE MARKETPLACE	20
Table 14: Manufacture of Wearing Apparel, Dressing
and Dyeing of Fur Enterprises by Regional Distribution (number of companies), 2003	21
DISTRIBUTION	21
HOW ROBUST IS THE MARKET?	22
KEY TRADE ASSOCIATIONS	22
Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry (ASBCI)	22
British Apparel and Textile Confederation (BATC)	22
British Knitting & Clothing Export Council (BKCEC)	22
British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA)	22
4. Competitor Analysis
THE MARKETPLACE	23
MARKET LEADERS	23
Table 15: Leading Lingerie Manufacturers by Turnover (£000), Latest Financial Results	24
LINGERIE MANUFACTURERS	25
Martin International
Holdings Ltd	25
Precis (1674) Ltd	25
Sara Lee Intimates UK Ltd	26


Sherwood Group PLC	26
Unity Brands Ltd	27
William Hollins & Company Ltd	27
LINGERIE RETAILERS	28
Agent Provocateur Ltd	28
Bhs Ltd	28
Marks & Spencer PLC	29
OTHER COMPANIES	30
Market Entrants	30
Silhouette	30
OUTSIDE SUPPLIERS	30
Textiles for Lingerie	30
Textile Manufacturing
Machinery	30
Computing Systems and
Information Technology	30
Marketing Activity	31
Table 16: Main Media Advertising Expenditure for Underwear,
Lingerie and Sleepwear (£000),
Year Ending March 2004	31
Exhibitions/Trade Shows	32
5. Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats
STRENGTHS	33
WEAKNESSES	33
OPPORTUNITIES	33
THREATS	34
6. Buying Behaviour
THE PURCHASE OF LINGERIE	35
Table 17: The Purchase of Lingerie, Corsetry and Hosiery
(% of women), 2004	35


Table 18: The Purchase of Lingerie,Corsetry and Hosiery
by Social Grade (% of women),
2003	35
Expenditure on Women’s Lingerie	36
Table 19: Expenditure on Women’s Underwear (% of women),
2004	36
usage of lingerie	37
Bras, Pants and Other Items of Lingerie	37
Table 20: The Usage of Bras by Age (% of women), 2004	37
Pants	37
Table 21: The Usage of Pants by Age (% of women), 2004	38
Other Lingerie	38
Table 22: The Usage of Other Lingerie by Age
(% of women), 2004	38
hosiery	39
Frequency of Purchase	39
Table 23: The Frequency of the Purchase of Tights, Stockings
and Hold-Ups by Women (% of women), 2004	39
Frequency of Use	39
Table 24: The Frequency of Usage of Tights, Stockings
and Hold-Ups by Age (% of women,) 2004	40
7. Current Issues
THE ROLE OF THE INTERNET	41
THE IMPACT OF THE EURO	41
HEALTH ISSUES	41
Product Development	41
Corporate Activity	42

8. The Global Market
THE TOTAL MARKET	43
MAJOR TRENDS	43
CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR	43
THE FUTURE	44
9. Forecasts
INTRODUCTION	45
The Economy	45
Table 25: Forecast UK Resident Population by Sex (000),
2004-2008	45
Table 26: Forecast UK Growth in Gross Domestic Product
in Real Terms (%), 2004-2008	46
Table 27: Forecast UK Rate of
Inflation (%), 2004-2008	46
Table 28: Forecast Actual Number of Unemployed Persons
(million), 2004-2008	47
FORECASTS 2004 to 2008	47
Table 29: The Total UK Forecast Hosiery, Corsetry and Lingerie Market by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp),
2004-2008	47
FUTURE TRENDS	48
Demographics	48
Market Segmentation	48
Globalisation	48
Product Development	48
Competitor Forecasts	48



10. Company Profiles
Agent Provocateur Ltd	50
Bhs Ltd	52
Marks And Spencer PLC	54
Martin International Holdings PLC	56
Sara Lee Intimates UK Ltd	58
William Hollins & Company Ltd	60
11. Further Sources
Associations	62
General Sources	62
Government Publications	62
Bonnier Information Sources	63

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Last updated by Amanda Porteous November 2004