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KEY NOTE LINGERIE : October 2002

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This report covers: lingerie, womens underwear, knickers, vests, camisoles, negligees, dressing gowns, pyjamas, bodies, teddies, petticoats, thongs, briefs, hosiery, tights, stockings, corsetry, brassieres, bras, girdles, corsets, suspenders, slips, bathrobes, advertising, promotions, buying behaviour, purchase of tights, pants, bras, stockings and holdups, slips, teddies and camisoles, amount spent, frequency of tights purchase, frequency of stockings purchase,

Companies covered include: Marks and Spencer, Martin International Holdings , Playtex Ltd, Sherwood Group , Warners (UK), William Hollins & Company , Fermark, Martin International Holdings, Playtex, Precis, Sherwood Group, Unity Brands, Warners, William Hollins & Company, Agent Provocateur, Bhs, La Perla, Acordis UK, Coats, JBB Textile Machinery, Sara Lee Courtaulds,

EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

Key Note estimates the total UK retail sales of women's hosiery, corsetry and lingerie to be £1.77bn in 2001. This represents a 6.9 percent rise since 2000.

The market is made up of the hosiery, corsetry and lingerie sectors. Retail sales for hosiery and lingerie stood at £624m and £552m respectively, in 2001. Brassières alone account for 33.4 percent of the market, with retail sales of £589m in 2001.

The UK clothing industry benefited from a sustained High Street boom during 2001 and in the first quarter of 2002. The lingerie market has been no exception. High levels of personal borrowing, based on low interest rates, have boosted consumer confidence, allowing the retail market to expand notably. This resulted in an increase in demand for lingerie between 2001 and 2002. During this period of growth the major retail players have maintained their dominance. However, they are increasingly coming under pressure from the UK's supermarket giants — Tesco, ASDA, Sainsbury's and Safeway — all of which are now present in the clothing and lingerie market.

The sale of brassières alone has outstripped the growth of other lingerie items, mainly due to the trend amongst younger women to combine brassières with sheer outer garments. This reflects the lingerie market's development into a mainstream, open industry that echoes UK women's modern independence. However, the fiercely competitive nature of the fashion industry and the fickle nature of consumer trends could potentially pose a threat to future growth in the lingerie market.

The development of new fabrics and the use of new materials in lingerie will provide an opportunity for companies to diversify their product range further. The market will also benefit from the growth of boutique shops, which have a more flexible and responsive approach to consumer trends.

However, although retail sales have risen, manufacturing sales have decreased significantly. Sales of the lingerie and corsetry sectors to non-EU countries have fallen by 14.4 percent, and sales to EU countries have dropped 10.6 percent between 2000 and 2001. Imports of lingerie and corsetry have risen by 5.4 percent overall, and by 8.3 percent from non-EU countries. This partly reflects the globalisation of the industry, but also the pattern of UK manufacturing companies transferring operations to overseas locations, in an attempt to reduce operational costs. Although UK manufacturers' sales are likely to continue to decrease, the market as a whole will remain buoyant, with retail sales of lingerie, corsetry and hosiery driving this trend. Consumers' willingness to embrace higher ticket prices in return for designer labels will be a major factor underpinning market growth

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Executive Summary 1
1. Market Definition 2
REPORT COVERAGE 2
MARKET SECTORS 2
Hosiery 2
Corsetry 2
Lingerie 2
MARKET TRENDS 3
Increasing Consumption Due to Changing Lifestyles 3
Success Story of G-Strings 3
Body-Shaping Underwear 3
Better Awareness of Cup Sizes 3
Fashion and Technology in the Hosiery Market 4
MARKET POSITION 4
The UK 4
Table 1: The UK Female Population (000), Mid-Year 1994-2000 5
Table 2: The UK Female Population by Age Group (000), Mid-Year 2000 5
Consumer Expenditure on Women’s, Girls’ and Infants’ Clothing 6
Table 3: Consumer Expenditure on Women’s, Girls’ and Infants’ Clothing (£bn), 1994-2000 6
Overseas 7
2. Market Size 8
THE TOTAL MARKET 8
Manufacturers’ Sales 8
Table 4: The Total UK Manufacturers’ Market for Hosiery, Corsetry and Lingerie by Value at Current Prices (£m at msp), 1997-2001 8
Retail Sales 8
Table 5: The Total UK Retail Market for Hosiery, Corsetry and Lingerie by Value at Current Prices (£bn at rsp), 1997-2001 9
BY MARKET SECTOR 9
Table 6: The Total UK Retail Market for Hosiery, Corsetry and Lingerie by Sector by Value (£m at rsp), 1997-2001 9
Overseas trade 10
Table 7: UK Imports and Exports of Lingerie and Corsetry by Value (£m), 2000 and 2001 10
Table 8: UK Imports and Exports of Hosiery by Value (£m), 2000 and 2001 11
Imports 11
Table 9: UK Imports of Lingerie and Corsetry by Value (£m), 2000 and 2001 11
Table 10: UK Imports of Lingerie and Corsetry by Sector by Value (£m), 2001 12
Brassières 12
Women’s Briefs and Pants 12
Nightdresses and Pyjamas 13
Girdles, and Suspenders 13
Negligees, Dressing Gowns
and Bathrobes 13
Slips and Petticoats 13
Hosiery 13
Table 11: UK Imports of Hosiery by Value (£m), 2000 and 2001 14
Exports 14
Table 12: UK Exports of Lingerie and Corsetry by Value (£m), 2000 and 2001 14
Table 13: UK Exports of Lingerie and Corsetry by Sector by Value (£m), 2001 15
Brassières 15
Women’s Briefs and Pants 15
Nightdresses and Pyjamas 16
Girdles and Suspenders 16
Negligees, Dressing Gowns and Bathrobes 16
Slips and Petticoats 16
Hosiery 16
Table 14: UK Exports of Hosiery by Value (£m), 2000 and 2001 17
3. Industry Background 18
RECENT HISTORY 18
NUMBER OF COMPANIES 18
Table 15: Number of VAT-Based Enterprises Engaged in the Manufacture of Underwear by Turnover Size (£000), 2002 19
EMPLOYMENT 19
Table 16: Number of VAT-Based Local Units Engaged in the Manufacture of Underwear by Employment Size (number of employees), 2002 20
REGIONAL VARIATIONS IN THE MARKETPLACE 20
DISTRIBUTION 20
HOW ROBUST IS THE MARKET? 21
LEGISLATION 21
KEY TRADE ASSOCIATIONS 22
British Apparel and Textile Confederation 22
British Knitting and Clothing Export Council 22
British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) 22
The Textile Institute 23
4. Competitor Analysis
The MarketPlace 24
Manufacturing 24
Table 17: Selected UK Manufacturers of Lingerie, Corsetry and Hosiery by Turnover (£m), 2000 24
Retailing 25
MARKET LEADERS 25
Manufacturers 25
Fermark (1960) Ltd 25
Martin International Holdings PLC 26
Playtex Ltd 26
Precis (1674) Ltd 27
Sherwood Group PLC 27
Unity Brands Ltd 28
Warners (UK) Ltd 28
William Hollins & Company Ltd 29
Retailers 29
Agent Provocateur Ltd 29
Bhs 29
Marks and Spencer PLC 30
La Perla 31
Outside Suppliers 31
Acordis UK Ltd 31
Coats PLC 32
JBB Textile Machinery Ltd 32
Sara Lee Courtaulds 32
ADVERTISING AND PROMOTION 33
Expenditure 33
Table 18: Main Media Advertising Expenditure on Women’s Lingerie, Corsetry and Hosiery (£000), Year Ending 2001 and Quarter 1 2002 33
Promotional Activity 34
Ann Summers Ltd 34
Elle MacPherson Intimates 35
Gossard (Holdings) Ltd 35
Marks and Spencer PLC 35
Playtex Ltd 36
Pringle and Agent Provocateur 36
Virginware 36
EXHIBITIONS 36
Publications 36
5. Strengths,Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats
STRENGTHS 38
WEAKNESSES 38
OPPORTUNITIES 38
THREATS 39
6. Buying Behaviour
THE PURCHASE OF LINGERIE 40
Table 19: The Purchase of Lingerie, Corsetry and Hosiery ( percent of women), April 2001 to March 2002 40
Expenditure on Women’s Lingerie 41
Bras, Briefs, Slips and Teddies 41
Table 20: Expenditure on Women’s Underwear ( percent of women), April 2001 to March 2002 41
Variation In The Usage Of Bras 41
Table 21: The Usage of Bras by Age ( percent of women), April 2001 to March 2002 42
Variation of the Frequency and Purchase of Tights 42
Table 22: The Frequency of the Purchase of Tights, Stockings and Holdups by Women ( percent of women), April 2001 to March 2002 42
Variation of the Frequency of Purchase of Tights by Age 43
Table 23: The Frequency of the Purchase of Tights, Stockings and Holdups by Age ( percent of women), April 2001 to March 2002 43
7. Current Issues
ACQUISITIONS, MERGERS AND CLOSURES 44
Adria 44
Arcadia Group PLC 44
Coats PLC 44
Courtaulds Textiles PLC, Mast Industries and MAS Holdings 44
Linmark 45
OTHER CORPORATE issues 45
Ann Summers Ltd 45
Debenhams PLC 45
Figleaves.com 46
Gossard (Holdings) PLC 46
Supermarket Lingerie Collections 46
NEW PRODUCT development 47
Aristoc 47
Dolce & Gabbana 47
La Perla 47
Marks and Spencer 47
Panache 47
Playtex 47
The Gap 48
THE ROLE OF THE INTERNET 48
THE IMPACT OF THE EURO 48
8. The Global Market
MAJOR MARKET MANUFACTURERS 49
MAJOR TRENDS 49
9. Forecasts
THE ECONOMY 50
FORECASTS 2002 TO 2006 50
Table 24: The Total UK Forecast Retail Market for Hosiery, Corsetry and Lingerie by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2002-2006 51
FUTURE TRENDS 51
Market Segmentation 51
Demographics 51
Table 25: UK Population Projections by Sex (000), 2001 – 2006 52
China 52
10. Company Profiles
Marks And Spencer PLC 54
Martin International Holdings PLC 56
Playtex Ltd 58
Sherwood Group PLC 60
Warners (UK) Ltd 62
William Hollins & Company Ltd 64
11. Further Sources
Associations 66
Publications 67
Directories 68
General Sources 69
Bonnier Information Sources 69
Government Publications 70
Other Sources 71
Understanding TGI Data 73
Number, Profile, Penetration 73
Social Grade 74
Standard Region 74
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Text © 2002 Key Note

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