| KN18052 |
| KEY NOTE LINGERIE : October 2002 |
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This report covers: lingerie, womens underwear, knickers, vests, camisoles, negligees, dressing gowns, pyjamas, bodies, teddies, petticoats, thongs, briefs, hosiery, tights, stockings, corsetry, brassieres, bras, girdles, corsets, suspenders, slips, bathrobes, advertising, promotions, buying behaviour, purchase of tights, pants, bras, stockings and holdups, slips, teddies and camisoles, amount spent, frequency of tights purchase, frequency of stockings purchase,
Companies covered include: Marks and Spencer, Martin International Holdings , Playtex Ltd, Sherwood Group , Warners (UK), William Hollins & Company , Fermark, Martin International Holdings, Playtex, Precis, Sherwood Group, Unity Brands, Warners, William Hollins & Company, Agent Provocateur, Bhs, La Perla, Acordis UK, Coats, JBB Textile Machinery, Sara Lee Courtaulds,
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
Key Note estimates the total UK retail sales of women's hosiery, corsetry and lingerie to be £1.77bn in 2001. This represents a 6.9 percent rise since 2000.
The market is made up of the hosiery, corsetry and lingerie sectors. Retail sales for hosiery and lingerie stood at £624m and £552m respectively, in 2001. Brassières alone account for 33.4 percent of the market, with retail sales of £589m in 2001.
The UK clothing industry benefited from a sustained High Street boom during 2001 and in the first quarter of 2002. The lingerie market has been no exception. High levels of personal borrowing, based on low interest rates, have boosted consumer confidence, allowing the retail market to expand notably. This resulted in an increase in demand for lingerie between 2001 and 2002. During this period of growth the major retail players have maintained their dominance. However, they are increasingly coming under pressure from the UK's supermarket giants Tesco, ASDA, Sainsbury's and Safeway all of which are now present in the clothing and lingerie market.
The sale of brassières alone has outstripped the growth of other lingerie items, mainly due to the trend amongst younger women to combine brassières with sheer outer garments. This reflects the lingerie market's development into a mainstream, open industry that echoes UK women's modern independence. However, the fiercely competitive nature of the fashion industry and the fickle nature of consumer trends could potentially pose a threat to future growth in the lingerie market.
The development of new fabrics and the use of new materials in lingerie will provide an opportunity for companies to diversify their product range further. The market will also benefit from the growth of boutique shops, which have a more flexible and responsive approach to consumer trends.
However, although retail sales have risen, manufacturing sales have decreased significantly. Sales of the lingerie and corsetry sectors to non-EU countries have fallen by 14.4 percent, and sales to EU countries have dropped 10.6 percent between 2000 and 2001. Imports of lingerie and corsetry have risen by 5.4 percent overall, and by 8.3 percent from non-EU countries. This partly reflects the globalisation of the industry, but also the pattern of UK manufacturing companies transferring operations to overseas locations, in an attempt to reduce operational costs. Although UK manufacturers' sales are likely to continue to decrease, the market as a whole will remain buoyant, with retail sales of lingerie, corsetry and hosiery driving this trend. Consumers' willingness to embrace higher ticket prices in return for designer labels will be a major factor underpinning market growth
TABLE OF CONTENTS
| Executive Summary | 1 |
| 1. Market Definition | 2 |
| REPORT COVERAGE | 2 |
| MARKET SECTORS | 2 |
| Hosiery | 2 |
| Corsetry | 2 |
| Lingerie | 2 |
| MARKET TRENDS | 3 |
| Increasing Consumption Due to Changing Lifestyles | 3 |
| Success Story of G-Strings | 3 |
| Body-Shaping Underwear | 3 |
| Better Awareness of Cup Sizes | 3 |
| Fashion and Technology in the Hosiery Market | 4 |
| MARKET POSITION | 4 |
| The UK | 4 |
| Table 1: The UK Female Population (000), Mid-Year 1994-2000 | 5 |
| Table 2: The UK Female Population by Age Group (000), Mid-Year 2000 | 5 |
| Consumer Expenditure on Womens, Girls and Infants Clothing | 6 |
| Table 3: Consumer Expenditure on Womens, Girls and Infants Clothing (£bn), 1994-2000 | 6 |
| Overseas | 7 |
| 2. Market Size | 8 |
| THE TOTAL MARKET | 8 |
| Manufacturers Sales | 8 |
| Table 4: The Total UK Manufacturers Market for Hosiery, Corsetry and Lingerie by Value at Current Prices (£m at msp), 1997-2001 | 8 |
| Retail Sales | 8 |
| Table 5: The Total UK Retail Market for Hosiery, Corsetry and Lingerie by Value at Current Prices (£bn at rsp), 1997-2001 | 9 |
| BY MARKET SECTOR | 9 |
| Table 6: The Total UK Retail Market for Hosiery, Corsetry and Lingerie by Sector by Value (£m at rsp), 1997-2001 | 9 |
| Overseas trade | 10 |
| Table 7: UK Imports and Exports of Lingerie and Corsetry by Value (£m), 2000 and 2001 | 10 |
| Table 8: UK Imports and Exports of Hosiery by Value (£m), 2000 and 2001 | 11 |
| Imports | 11 |
| Table 9: UK Imports of Lingerie and Corsetry by Value (£m), 2000 and 2001 | 11 |
| Table 10: UK Imports of Lingerie and Corsetry by Sector by Value (£m), 2001 | 12 |
| Brassières | 12 |
| Womens Briefs and Pants | 12 |
| Nightdresses and Pyjamas | 13 |
| Girdles, and Suspenders | 13 |
| Negligees, Dressing Gowns | |
| and Bathrobes | 13 |
| Slips and Petticoats | 13 |
| Hosiery | 13 |
| Table 11: UK Imports of Hosiery by Value (£m), 2000 and 2001 | 14 |
| Exports | 14 |
| Table 12: UK Exports of Lingerie and Corsetry by Value (£m), 2000 and 2001 | 14 |
| Table 13: UK Exports of Lingerie and Corsetry by Sector by Value (£m), 2001 | 15 |
| Brassières | 15 |
| Womens Briefs and Pants | 15 |
| Nightdresses and Pyjamas | 16 |
| Girdles and Suspenders | 16 |
| Negligees, Dressing Gowns and Bathrobes | 16 |
| Slips and Petticoats | 16 |
| Hosiery | 16 |
| Table 14: UK Exports of Hosiery by Value (£m), 2000 and 2001 | 17 |
| 3. Industry Background | 18 |
| RECENT HISTORY | 18 |
| NUMBER OF COMPANIES | 18 |
| Table 15: Number of VAT-Based Enterprises Engaged in the Manufacture of Underwear by Turnover Size (£000), 2002 | 19 |
| EMPLOYMENT | 19 |
| Table 16: Number of VAT-Based Local Units Engaged in the Manufacture of Underwear by Employment Size (number of employees), 2002 | 20 |
| REGIONAL VARIATIONS IN THE MARKETPLACE | 20 |
| DISTRIBUTION | 20 |
| HOW ROBUST IS THE MARKET? | 21 |
| LEGISLATION | 21 |
| KEY TRADE ASSOCIATIONS | 22 |
| British Apparel and Textile Confederation | 22 |
| British Knitting and Clothing Export Council | 22 |
| British Textile Machinery Association (BTMA) | 22 |
| The Textile Institute | 23 |
| 4. Competitor Analysis | |
| The MarketPlace | 24 |
| Manufacturing | 24 |
| Table 17: Selected UK Manufacturers of Lingerie, Corsetry and Hosiery by Turnover (£m), 2000 | 24 |
| Retailing | 25 |
| MARKET LEADERS | 25 |
| Manufacturers | 25 |
| Fermark (1960) Ltd | 25 |
| Martin International Holdings PLC | 26 |
| Playtex Ltd | 26 |
| Precis (1674) Ltd | 27 |
| Sherwood Group PLC | 27 |
| Unity Brands Ltd | 28 |
| Warners (UK) Ltd | 28 |
| William Hollins & Company Ltd | 29 |
| Retailers | 29 |
| Agent Provocateur Ltd | 29 |
| Bhs | 29 |
| Marks and Spencer PLC | 30 |
| La Perla | 31 |
| Outside Suppliers | 31 |
| Acordis UK Ltd | 31 |
| Coats PLC | 32 |
| JBB Textile Machinery Ltd | 32 |
| Sara Lee Courtaulds | 32 |
| ADVERTISING AND PROMOTION | 33 |
| Expenditure | 33 |
| Table 18: Main Media Advertising Expenditure on Womens Lingerie, Corsetry and Hosiery (£000), Year Ending 2001 and Quarter 1 2002 | 33 |
| Promotional Activity | 34 |
| Ann Summers Ltd | 34 |
| Elle MacPherson Intimates | 35 |
| Gossard (Holdings) Ltd | 35 |
| Marks and Spencer PLC | 35 |
| Playtex Ltd | 36 |
| Pringle and Agent Provocateur | 36 |
| Virginware | 36 |
| EXHIBITIONS | 36 |
| Publications | 36 |
| 5. Strengths,Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats | |
| STRENGTHS | 38 |
| WEAKNESSES | 38 |
| OPPORTUNITIES | 38 |
| THREATS | 39 |
| 6. Buying Behaviour | |
| THE PURCHASE OF LINGERIE | 40 |
| Table 19: The Purchase of Lingerie, Corsetry and Hosiery ( percent of women), April 2001 to March 2002 | 40 |
| Expenditure on Womens Lingerie | 41 |
| Bras, Briefs, Slips and Teddies | 41 |
| Table 20: Expenditure on Womens Underwear ( percent of women), April 2001 to March 2002 | 41 |
| Variation In The Usage Of Bras | 41 |
| Table 21: The Usage of Bras by Age ( percent of women), April 2001 to March 2002 | 42 |
| Variation of the Frequency and Purchase of Tights | 42 |
| Table 22: The Frequency of the Purchase of Tights, Stockings and Holdups by Women ( percent of women), April 2001 to March 2002 | 42 |
| Variation of the Frequency of Purchase of Tights by Age | 43 |
| Table 23: The Frequency of the Purchase of Tights, Stockings and Holdups by Age ( percent of women), April 2001 to March 2002 | 43 |
| 7. Current Issues | |
| ACQUISITIONS, MERGERS AND CLOSURES | 44 |
| Adria | 44 |
| Arcadia Group PLC | 44 |
| Coats PLC | 44 |
| Courtaulds Textiles PLC, Mast Industries and MAS Holdings | 44 |
| Linmark | 45 |
| OTHER CORPORATE issues | 45 |
| Ann Summers Ltd | 45 |
| Debenhams PLC | 45 |
| Figleaves.com | 46 |
| Gossard (Holdings) PLC | 46 |
| Supermarket Lingerie Collections | 46 |
| NEW PRODUCT development | 47 |
| Aristoc | 47 |
| Dolce & Gabbana | 47 |
| La Perla | 47 |
| Marks and Spencer | 47 |
| Panache | 47 |
| Playtex | 47 |
| The Gap | 48 |
| THE ROLE OF THE INTERNET | 48 |
| THE IMPACT OF THE EURO | 48 |
| 8. The Global Market | |
| MAJOR MARKET MANUFACTURERS | 49 |
| MAJOR TRENDS | 49 |
| 9. Forecasts | |
| THE ECONOMY | 50 |
| FORECASTS 2002 TO 2006 | 50 |
| Table 24: The Total UK Forecast Retail Market for Hosiery, Corsetry and Lingerie by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 2002-2006 | 51 |
| FUTURE TRENDS | 51 |
| Market Segmentation | 51 |
| Demographics | 51 |
| Table 25: UK Population Projections by Sex (000), 2001 2006 | 52 |
| China | 52 |
| 10. Company Profiles | |
| Marks And Spencer PLC | 54 |
| Martin International Holdings PLC | 56 |
| Playtex Ltd | 58 |
| Sherwood Group PLC | 60 |
| Warners (UK) Ltd | 62 |
| William Hollins & Company Ltd | 64 |
| 11. Further Sources | |
| Associations | 66 |
| Publications | 67 |
| Directories | 68 |
| General Sources | 69 |
| Bonnier Information Sources | 69 |
| Government Publications | 70 |
| Other Sources | 71 |
| Understanding TGI Data | 73 |
| Number, Profile, Penetration | 73 |
| Social Grade | 74 |
| Standard Region | 74 |
| Key Note Research | |
| The Key Note Range of Reports |
Text © 2002 Key Note
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Last updated by Amanda Porteous February 2004