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Table of Contents

Executive Summary

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Executive Summary

Introduction

PRODUCT CLASSIFICATION

MARKET MEASUREMENT

THE TOTAL MARKET

WOMEN'S CLOTHING

MEN'S CLOTHING

SPORTS CLOTHING

CLOTHING ACCESSORIES

CLOTHING MANUFACTURING AND RETAILING

FOOTWEAR

CONSUMER ATTITUDES

FORECASTS

Clothing and Footwear in the UK

INTRODUCTION

MARKET SIZE

PRICES

INDUSTRY BACKGROUND

OVERSEAS TRADE

CONSUMER SPENDING

KEY PLAYERS

Table 2.1: Clothing and Footwear Market and Total Consumer Expenditure (£m at rsp), 1985-1995

Table 2.2: The Total UK Clothing and Footwear Market (£m at rsp), 1990-1995

Table 2.3: Sectors of the UK Clothing and Footwear Market (£m at rsp), 1990-1995

Table 2.4: Retail Price Indices for Clothing and Footwear (1987=100), 1987-February 1996

Table 2.5: Size Analysis of the UK Clothing and Footwear Industry (number of local units), 1988-1995

Table 2.6: Size Analysis of the UK Clothing and Footwear Manufacturing Industry by Number of Employees (number of local units), 1993-1995

Table 2.7: Employment in the Clothing and Footwear Industry (000), 1990-1995

Table 2.8: Productivity in the Textiles and Leather Manufacturing Sector (index of output per employee), 1990-1996

Table 2.9: Value of Increase/Decrease in Stocks and Work in Progress for the Textiles Sector (£m), 1990-1995

Table 2.10: Indices of Output of the Textiles/Leather Sector (1985 and 1990=100), 1985-1996

Table 2.11: Breakdown of Output Indices for the Textiles Products and Leather Products Sectors (1990=100), 1990-1996

Table 2.12: Balance of Trade in Clothing and Footwear (£m) 1990-1996

Table 2.13: Family Expenditure on Clothing and Footwear by Income and Social Class (£ and percent of all spending), 1994/1995

Table 2.14: Family Expenditure on Clothing and Footwear by Age of Head of Household (£ and percent of all spending), 1994/1995

Table 2.15: Family Expenditure on Clothing and Footwear by Region (£ and percent of all spending), 1994/1995

Women's Clothing

INTRODUCTION

MARKET SIZE

CONSUMER SPENDING

INDUSTRY BACKGROUND

OVERSEAS TRADE

MAJOR MANUFACTURERS

MAJOR RETAILERS

ADVERTISING

RECENT DEVELOPMENTS

FORECASTS

Table 3.1: The UK Women's, Girls' and Infants' Clothing Market (£m at rsp), 1990-1995

Table 3.2: Sectors of the Women's, Girls' and Infants' Clothing Market (£m at rsp and percent), 1995

Table 3.3: Family Expenditure on Women's Clothing by Income (£ per week), 1994/1995

Table 3.4: Women's Spending on Outerwear by Value in the Last 12 Months ( percent of women spending), 1996

Table 3.5: Women's Spending on Underwear by Value in the Last 12 Months ( percent of women spending), 1996

Table 3.6: Women's Purchase of Hosiery by Volume in the Last 12 Months ( percent of women who buy at all, pairs per month), 1996

Table 3.7: Women's Spending on Children's Clothing by Value in the Last 12 Months ( percent of all women spending), 1993-1996

Table 3.8: Structure of Womenswear Manufacturing by Enterprises, Local Units and Employees (number), 1994

Table 3.9: Exports of Women's, Girls' and Infants' Clothing (£m), 1995

Table 3.10: Imports of Women's and Girls' Outerwear by Value and Volume (£m and 000 units), 1995

Table 3.11: Imports of Women's and Girls' Dresses and Skirts by Value and Volume (£m and 000 units), 1995

Table 3.12: Imports of Women's and Girls' Trousers and Shorts by Value and Volume (£m and 000 units), 1995

Table 3.13: Imports of Women's and Girls' Blouses and Shirts by Value and Volume (£m and 000 units), 1995

Table 3.14: Imports of Women's and Girls' Underwear and Nightwear by Value and Volume (£m and metric tonnes), 1995

Table 3.15: Imports of Women's and Girls' Tights and Pantyhose by Value and Volume (£m and 000 pairs), 1995

Table 3.16: Imports of Babywear by Value and Volume (£m and metric tonnes), 1995

Table 3.17: Imports of Knitwear by Value and Volume (£m and 000 units), 1995

Table 3.18: Imports of T-Shirts by Value and Volume (£m and 000 units), 1995

Table 3.19: Leading Womenswear and Infantswear Manufacturers (£m), 1994/1996

Table 3.20: Leading Womenswear Multiples Ranked by Total Outlets (number), 1996

Table 3.21: Leading Childrenswear Multiples Ranked by Total Outlets (number), 1996

Table 3.22: Main Media Advertising Expenditure on Women's Clothing (£000), 12 Months to June 1996

Table 3.23: Retail Price Indices for Women's Outerwear (1987=100), 1987-February 1996

Table 3.24: Forecast UK Market for Women's Clothing at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 1996-2000

Men's Clothing

INTRODUCTION

MARKET SIZE

CONSUMER SPENDING

INDUSTRY BACKGROUND

OVERSEAS TRADE

MAJOR MANUFACTURERS

MAJOR RETAILERS

ADVERTISING

RECENT DEVELOPMENTS

FORECASTS

Table 4.1: The UK Men's and Boys' Clothing Market (£m at rsp), 1990-1995

Table 4.2: Sectors of the Men's and Boys' Clothing Market (£m and percent), 1995

Table 4.3: Family Expenditure on Men's and Boys' Clothing by Income (£ per week), 1994/1995

Table 4.4: Spending on Men's Shirts and Knitwear by Value in the Last 12 Months ( percent of adults, men and women), 1996

Table 4.5: Spending on Men's Underwear and Ties by Value in the Last 12 Months ( percent of all adults, men and women), 1996

Table 4.6: Spending on Men's Outerwear by Value in the Last 12 Months ( percent of men), 1996

Table 4.7: Structure of Menswear Manufacturing by Enterprises, Local Units and Employees (number), 1994

Table 4.8: Exports of Men's and Boys' Clothing (£m), 1995

Table 4.9: Imports of Men's and Boys' Outerwear by Value and Volume (£m and 000 units), 1995

Table 4.10: Imports of Men's and Boys' Shirts by Value and Volume (£m and 000 units), 1995

Table 4.11: Imports of Men's and Boys' Underwear and Nightwear by Value and Volume (£m and metric tonnes), 1995

Table 4.12: Imports of Knitwear by Value and Volume (£m and 000 units), 1995

Table 4.13: Imports of T-Shirts by Value and Volume (£m and 000 units), 1995

Table 4.14: Imports of Socks by Value and Volume (£m and 000 pairs), 1995

Table 4.15: Leading Menswear Manufacturers (£m), 1994/1996

Table 4.16: Leading Menswear Retailers Ranked by Total Outlets (number), 1996

Table 4.17: Main Media Advertising Expenditure on Men's Clothing (£000), 12 Months to June 1996

Table 4.18: Retail Price Indices for Men's Outerwear (1987=100), 1987-February 1996

Table 4.19: Forecast UK Market for Men's and Boys' Clothing at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 1996-2000

Sports Clothing

INTRODUCTION

MARKET SIZE

CONSUMER SPENDING

INDUSTRY BACKGROUND

OVERSEAS TRADE

MAJOR MANUFACTURERS

ADVERTISING

RECENT DEVELOPMENTS

FORECASTS

Table 5.1: Sports Clothing in the Total UK Clothing Market (£m at rsp and percent), 1990-1995

Table 5.2: The UK Sports Clothing Market (£m), 1990-1995

Table 5.3: Spending on Sports Clothing by Value in the Last 12 Months ( percent of men and women), 1996

Table 5.4: Spending on Sports Clothing by Type ( percent of adults), 1995

Table 5.5: Spending on Swimwear by Value in the Last 12 Months ( percent of men and women), 1996

Table 5.6: Penetration of Sports Clothing by Sex and Age ( percent), 1995

Table 5.7: Imports of Swimwear by Value and Volume (£m and 000 units), 1995

Table 5.8: Imports of Tracksuits by Value and Volume (£m and 000 units), 1995

Table 5.9: Imports of T-Shirts by Value and Volume (£m and 000 units), 1995

Table 5.10: Leading Sports Wear and Swimwear Manufacturers (£m), 1994-1995

Table 5.11: Leading Multiple Sports Wear and Outdoor Retailers Ranked by Number of Stores (number), 1996

Table 5.12: Main Media Advertising Expenditure on Sports Clothing and Footwear (£000), Year to June 1996

Table 5.13: Forecast UK Market for Sports Clothing at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 1996-2000

Clothing Accessories

INTRODUCTION

MARKET SIZE

CONSUMER SPENDING

INDUSTRY BACKGROUND

OVERSEAS TRADE

MAJOR RETAILERS

RECENT DEVELOPMENTS

FORECASTS

Table 6.1: Family Expenditure on Accessories and the UK Accessories Market (£ per week and £m at rsp), 1994/1995

Table 6.2: Family Expenditure on Clothing Accessories by Income (£ weekly), 1994-1995

Table 6.3: Spending on Handbags in the Last 12 Months ( percent of women), 1993-1996

Table 6.4: Number of Enterprises by Number of Employees, 1994

Table 6.5: Exports of Clothing Accessories (£m), 1995

Table 6.6: Imports of Clothing Accessories by Value and Volume (£m and 000 units), 1995

Table 6.7: Leading Department Store Multiples Ranked by Number of Stores (number), 1996

Table 6.8: Forecast UK Market for Clothing Accessories and Services (£m), 1996-2000

Clothing Manufacturing and Retailing

CLOTHING MANUFACTURING

CLOTHING RETAILING

Table 7.1: Structure of Clothing Manufacturing by Enterprises, Businesses, Employees and Gross Output (number, 000 and £m), 1988-1995

Table 7.2: Structure of Hosiery and Knitwear Manufacture by Enterprises, Businesses, Employees and Gross Output (number, 000 and £m), 1988-1995

Table 7.3: Indices of Output of the Textiles/Leather Sector (1985 and 1990=100), 1985-1996

Table 7.4: UK Clothing Manufacturers' Sales (£m), 1994 and 1995

Table 7.5: Exports by Type of Clothing (£m), 1995

Table 7.6: Leading Clothing Manufacturers, 1994/1996

Table 7.7: Distribution Shares for All Clothing by Value ( percent), 1994 and 1995

Table 7.8: Market Shares of Leading Clothing Retailers by Value ( percent), 1994

Table 7.9: Outlets of Leading General Clothing Multiples and Variety Stores Ranked by Number of Stores (number), 1996

Table 7.10: Outlets of the Leading Specialist Clothing Multiples Ranked by Number of Outlets (number), 1995

Table 7.11: Turnover of Leading Clothing Retailers (£m), 1994/1996

Table 7.12: Marks and Spencer PLC's Annual Results (£m), Year to 31st March 1996

Table 7.13: Burton Group's Annual Results (£m), 1994 and 1995

Table 7.14: Product Mix in Department Stores by Value ( percent), 1994

Table 7.15: Leading Department Store Multiples Ranked by Number of Stores (number), 1996

Footwear

INTRODUCTION

MARKET SIZE

PRICES

CONSUMER SPENDING

OVERSEAS TRADE

MAJOR MANUFACTURERS

MAJOR RETAILERS

RECENT DEVELOPMENTS

FORECASTS

Table 8.1: The UK Footwear Market and Consumer Expenditure (£m, £bn and percent), 1984-1995

Table 8.2: The Total UK Footwear Market at Current and Constant Prices (£m at rsp), 1990-1995

Table 8.3: Breakdown of Footwear Market by User (£m and percent), 1995

Table 8.4: Retail Price Indices for Footwear (1987=100), 1987-February 1996

Table 8.5: Family Expenditure on Footwear by Household Income (£ weekly and percent), 1994/1995

Table 8.6: Spending on Footwear by Value in the Last 12 Months ( percent of adults), 1996

Table 8.7: Imports of Footwear by Value and Volume (£m and 000 pairs), 1995

Table 8.8: Imports of Sports Footwear by Value and Volume (£m and 000 pairs), 1995

Table 8.9: Forecast UK Footwear Market at Current Prices (£m), 1996-2000

Footwear Manufacturing and Retailing

FOOTWEAR MANUFACTURING

DISTRIBUTORS AND WHOLESALERS

FOOTWEAR RETAILING

Table 9.1: Footwear Manufacturers by Number of Employees, 1994

Table 9.2: Leading Footwear Manufacturers, 1994/1996

Table 9.3: Leading Sports Footwear Manufacturers/Distributors, 1993/1995

Table 9.4: Distribution Shares for Footwear by Value ( percent), 1994 and 1995

Table 9.5: Leading Multiple Footwear Retailers Ranked by Total Outlets (number), 1996

Table 9.6: Turnover of Leading Footwear Retailers (£m), 1994/1996

Current Consumer Attitudes

OVERVIEW OF CLOTHING ATTITUDES

PURPOSE OF BUYING CLOTHES

PLACE OF PURCHASE

ATTITUDES TO QUALITY

ATTITUDES TO DRESS

ATTITUDES TO SHOPPING

CHANGES IN THE AMOUNT SPENT ON CLOTHING

Table 10.1: Summary of Consumer Attitudes to Buying Clothes ( percent agreeing), 1996

Table 10.2: Purpose of Buying Clothing ( percent agreeing), 1996

Table 10.3: Main Place of Purchase for Clothing ( percent agreeing), 1996

Table 10.4: Quality and Fashion Preferences in Clothes and Shoes ( percent agreeing), 1996

Table 10.5: The Importance of Dress ( percent agreeing), 1996

Table 10.6: Frequency and Approach to Shopping ( percent agreeing), 1996

Table 10.7: I Spend More on Clothes and Footwear Than I Did 12 Months Ago ( percent agreeing), 1996

Forecasts

FUTURE TRENDS

FORECASTS 1996-2000

SHOPPING TRENDS

DEMOGRAPHICS

Table 11.1: Forecast UK Market for Clothing and Footwear at Current Prices (£m), 1996-2000

Further Sources

ASSOCIATIONS

PERIODICALS

DIRECTORIES

GENERAL SOURCES

HBI UK INFORMATION SOURCES

GOVERNMENT PUBLICATIONS

OTHER SOURCES

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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY

The UK clothing and footwear market was worth £25.8bn in 1995. The market will experience solid growth in 1996 and 1997, with slower growth following in the subsequent years to the year 2000.

Clothing and footwear has been slowly declining over the long term as a proportion of total consumer expenditure. It has fallen from 6.9 percent in 1985 to 5.8 percent in 1995. Whilst fashion can cause particular products to experience surging sales, overall the sector is mature and growth as a proportion of total consumer expenditure is not to be expected.

Clothing accounts for 83 percent of the total market and footwear for the remaining 17 percent. The women's clothing category includes womenswear, girls' clothing and babywear, and also accessories. This important category was worth £14.56bn in 1995, representing 68 percent of the total clothing market. Men's clothing is a more limited market, constituting only 32 percent of the total (including boys' clothing). Women's spending patterns are important here, too, since a significant number of women buy clothing on behalf of men.

The footwear market was worth £4.4bn in 1995. Shares of the market were more even here, with women representing 44 percent of the total, men 32 percent and children 24 percent.

An increasing trend is the spread of sports and leisure wear into the wider clothing and footwear markets. These sports and activity-oriented products are no longer used solely for sporting pursuits; they now infiltrate most leisure wear, even gaining acceptance as fashion suitable for the teenage market. Trainers have long been accepted as general purpose footwear, but as the growth of sports wear continues, clothing from manufacturers such as Nike and Adidas also gain acceptance as general purpose clothing. The so-called `summer of sport' in the UK in 1996 has supported this trend.

Sports clothing itself was valued at £1.76bn in 1995, but Key Note has commented on the difficulty of measuring it separately due to extensive overlap with the general clothing sector. In the footwear sector, sports shoes have, however, given way to boots and heavier soled shoes for fashion wear.

Branding of clothing and footwear has increased in importance, with the consequence of diminishing the importance of retailer names in consumer awareness as consumers increasingly seek out particular branded merchandise rather than exercise loyalty to retailers. Adidas has been particularly successful during 1996 in this regard, but companies such as Timberland, Barbour, Benetton, Reebok and The Sweater Shop have all exploited this trend.

Retailers who have maintained their strong positionings in the market include Marks and Spencer and the Burton Group. The rest of the market is highly fragmented, although complex linkages are emerging as manufacturers develop distribution outlets -- including in-store concessions and their own mail order distribution channels.

Manufacturing in the UK is diminishing. Even traditional support from `patriotic' chains like Marks and Spencer is reducing as increasing proportions of their supply is sourced from overseas. The pressure of imports, particularly due to lower cost bases and rapid response to changing fashions, is great. Domestic manufacturers are themselves moving production to overseas locations in order to remain competitive. Whilst Hong Kong is by far the dominant source country for clothing products, other countries, notably Indonesia, Malaysia, India, Bangladesh and Turkey are all developing their production capabilities. In the footwear sector, the top three importers are European.

Overall, the sector will continue to be broadly stable as a proportion of consumer expenditure, but changing fashions, distribution and retail patterns will continue to produce volatility within the overall maturity of the sector. Imports will continue to put pressure on domestic manufacturers, particularly as regards cost. The cost consciousness of the British shopper will remain and growth in the market will be derived predominantly from gains in volume rather than in value. UK manufacturers will have most success in the tailored and knitwear sectors, particularly where strong brand names, like Barbour and Pringle, can attract premium pricing.

The general retailers will continue to be under threat from specialists. The opportunity of distributing by mail order -- as well as through High Street outlets -- will be seized by an increasing number of retailers, and in particular, some of the major names in British retailing will experiment in this area.

Text © 1996 Key Note

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