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KN18022
KEY NOTE CHILDRENSWEAR 2002

Editor: Emily Pattullo
ISBN: 1-84168-349-3

This report covers: childrenswear, child clothing, girls' clothing up to 12 year-olds, boys' clothing up to 12 year-olds, infants' clothing for up to 2 year-olds, childrens' footwear for up to 12 year-olds, sportswear, character merchandising, designer brands, basic offers, schoolwear,clothing,infants' clothing,girls' clothing,

Companies/labels covered include: Adams Childrenswear, Banner,Ladybird,Paul Smith,Tesco,National Schoolwear Centres,Benetton Retail,Etam, Gap,H & M Hennes,Monsoon,New Look Group, Next,Zara,Matalan,Primark Stores,Peacock Group,QS,TJ Hughes,ASDA,Puma,Diesel Kids, Arcadia Group, Bhs, Debenhams, Littlewoods, Marks & Spencer, Matalan, Mothercare, QS Group, Woolworths, Blacks Leisure Group, JJB Sports,' clothing,infants' clothing,girls' clothing,

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TABLE OF CONTENTS


Executive Summary 1
1. Market Definition 9
REPORT COVERAGE 9
MARKET SECTORS 9
MARKET TRENDS 9
The Child Population 9
Table 1: The UK Child Population by Age Group (000 and percent), 1996-2001 10
Table 2: Number of Live Births and the Birth Rate in the UK (000 and percent), 1991-2001 10
Price Deflation 11
Table 3: Clothing Retail Price Indices (100=1987), 1996-2001 11
Trends in Schoolwear 11
Fashion Trends 12
Organic Products 12
MARKET POSITION 12
The UK 12
Table 4: Consumer Expenditure on Clothing by Value at Current Prices and Share Held by Childrenswear (£m at rsp and percent), 1997-2001 13
Overseas 13
2. Market Size 14
THE TOTAL MARKET 14
Table 5: The UK Childrenswear Market by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp), 1997-2001 14
MARKET SECTORS 14
Table 6: The UK Childrenswear Market by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp and percent), 2001 15
Girls' Clothing 15
Table 7: The UK Girls' Clothing Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp and percent), 1997-2001 16
Boys' Clothing 16
Table 8: The UK Boys' Clothing Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp and percent), 1997-2001 17
Infants' Clothing 17
Table 9: The UK Infants' Clothing Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp and percent) 1997-2001 18
Schoolwear 18
OVERSEAS TRADE 18
Table 10: Overseas Trade in Clothing by Value (£m), 1997-2001 19
Imports 19
Table 11: Apparel Imports to the UK by the Top Ten Countries of Origin (£m), 2000 and 2001 20
Exports 20
Table 12: Top Ten Destinations for Apparel Exports from the UK (£m), 2000 and 2001 20
3. Industry Background 22
Recent History 22
NUMBER OF COMPANIES 22
Table 13: Number of VAT-Based Enterprises Engaged in the Manufacture of Wearing Apparel by Turnover Sizeband (£000 and percent), 2001 23
EMPLOYMENT 24
Table 14: Total UK Clothing, Textiles and Leather Manufacturing Industry by Employment (000 and index 1996=100), 1996-2001 24
REGIONAL VARIATIONS IN THE MARKETPLACE 24
DISTRIBUTION 25
Table 15: Retail Distribution of Childrenswear by Type of Outlet by Value ( percent), 2001 25
HOW ROBUST IS THE MARKET? 26
LEGISLATION 27
Multi Fibre Agreement 27
National Minimum Wage Regulations 27
Safety Regulations 27
KEY TRADE ASSOCIATION 28
The National Childrenswear Association 28
4. Competitor Analysis 29
THE MARKETPLACE 29
MARKET LEADERS 29
Table 16: Leading Companies in the UK Childrenswear Market by Turnover and Pre-Tax Profit (£m), 2000/2001 30
CLOTHING MANUFACTURERS 31
Coats PLC 31
Company Structure 31
Current and Future Developments 31
Financial Results 31
Dewhirst Group Ltd 31
Company Structure 31
Current and Future Developments 32
Financial Results 32
William Baird PLC 32
Company Structure 32
Current and Future Developments 32
Financial Results 32
Other Childrenswear Manufacturers 32
SCHOOLWEAR SUPPLIERS 33
Seet Ltd 33
Company Structure 33
Current and Future Developments 33
Financial Results 33
Other Schoolwear Suppliers 33
SPECIALIST CLOTHING RETAILERS 33
Adams Childrenswear Ltd 33
Company Structure 33
Current and Future Developments 34
Financial Results 34
Arcadia Group PLC 34
Company Structure 34
Current and Future Developments 34
Financial Results 34
Benetton Retail (1988) Ltd 34
Company Structure 34
Current and Future Developments 35
Financial Results 35
Etam PLC 35
Company Structure 35
Current and Future Developments 35
Financial Results 35
Gap UK Ltd 36
Company Structure 36
Current and Future Developments 36
Financial Results 36
H&M Hennes Ltd 36
Company Structure 36
Current and Future Developments 36
Financial Results 36
Monsoon PLC 37
Company Structure 37
Current and Future Developments 37
Financial Results 37
Mothercare PLC 37
Company Structure 37
Current and Future Developments 37
Financial Results 38
Next PLC 38
Company Structure 38
Current and Future Developments 38
Financial Results 38
New Look Group PLC 38
Company Structure 38
Current and Future Developments 38
Financial Results 39
Zara UK Ltd 39
Company Structure 39
Current and Future Developments 39
Financial Results 39
Discount Retailers 39
Matalan PLC 39
Company Structure 39
Current and Future Developments 39
Financial Results 40
Primark Stores Ltd 40
Company Structure 40
Current and Future Developments 40
Financial Results 40
The Peacock Group PLC 40
Company Structure 40
Current and Future Developments 41
Financial Results 41
QS Group PLC 41
Company Structure 41
Current and Future Developments 41
Financial Results 41
TJ Hughes PLC 41
Company Structure 41
Current and Future Developments 41
Financial Results 42
Other Discount Retailers 42
MIXED RETAILERS AND DEPARTMENT STORES 42
Bhs Ltd 42
Company Structure 42
Current and Future Developments 42
Financial Results 42
Debenhams PLC 43
Company Structure 43
Current and Future Developments 43
Financial Results 43
Littlewoods PLC 43
Company Structure 43
Current and Future Developments 44
Financial Results 44
Marks and Spencer PLC 44
Company Structure 44
Current and Future Developments 44
Financial Results 44
Woolworths PLC 45
Company Structure 45
Current and Future Developments 45
Financial Results 45
THE SUPERMARKETS 45
MAIL ORDER 46
OUTSIDE SUPPLIERS 46
Textile Suppliers 46
Machinery Suppliers 47
Product Finishes 47
ADVERTISING AND PROMOTION 47
Table 17: Main Media Advertising Expenditure on Childrenswear (£000), Years Ending March 1997-2002 47
Table 18: Main Media Advertising Expenditure in the Childrenswear and Babies Clothing Markets (£000), Year Ending March 2002 48
Recent Promotions 49
Adams 49
Etam 49
Exhibitions 49
5. Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities and Threats 51
STRENGTHS 51
WEAKNESSES 51
OPPORTUNITIES 51
THREATS 52
6. Buying Behaviour 53
INTRODUCTION 53
CONSUMER PENETRATION 53
Table 19: Purchasing of Childrenswear ( percent of adults), 2001 53
Table 20: Expenditure on Children's Clothing in the Previous 12 Months ( percent of women purchasing), 1998-2001 55
Table 21: The Purchase of Clothing from Supermarkets ( percent of respondents), 2002 56
7. Current Issues 57
CITY ACADEMICS 57
THE ROLE OF THE INTERNET 57
NEW PRODUCT LAUNCHES 58
Marks and Spencer PLC 58
Adams Childrenswear Ltd 58
Selfridges PLC 59
ASDA Group Ltd 59
Puma 59
Diesel Kids 59
Monsoon Kids 59
Banner Ltd 59
Woolworths PLC 60
NEW TECHNOLOGY 60
CORPORATE ACTIVITY 60
Adams Childrenswear Ltd/The Boots Company PLC 60
Ladybird 61
Paul Smith 61
Banner Ltd 61
Tesco PLC 61
Argos Ltd/Adams Childrenswear Ltd 61
Matalan PLC 61
National Schoolwear Centres 62
Uniqlo 62
LEGLISATIVE CHANGES 62
New EU Clothing Sizes 62
VAT 62
8. The Global Market 63
INCREASING GLOBALISATION 63
Table 22: The UK's Leading Foreign-Owned Specialist Clothing Retailers, 2001 64
SELECTED GLOBAL MARKETS 65
Australia 65
France 65
The US 66
CONTINENTAL COMPARISIONS 66
ADVERTISING and PROMOTION 66
RECENT DEVELopMENTS 66
China/World Trade Organization 66
Ben Sherman 66
Adams Childrenswear Ltd 67
Osh Kosh B'Gosh 67
Nike/CWF 67
9. Forecasts 68
INTRODUCTION 68
FORECASTS 2002 TO 2006 68
Table 23: Forecast UK Childrenswear Market by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp and percent), 2002-2006 68
Table 24: Forecast UK Childrenswear Market by Sector by Value at Current Prices (£m at rsp and percent), 2002-2006 69
FUTURE TRENDS 69
Demographics 69
Table 25: The Actual and Forecast UK Child Population by Age Group (000), 2001 and 2006 70
Market Segmentation 70
Product Development 70
Competitor Forecasts 71
10. Company Profiles 72
Adams Childrenswear Ltd 73
Etam PLC 75
Marks And Spencer Plc 77
Matalan Plc 79
Mothercare Plc 81
Next Plc 83
Seet Ltd 85
Woolworths PLC 87
11. Further Sources 89
Associations 89
Publications 90
Directories 92
General Sources 92
Bonnier Information Sources 93
Government Publications 94
Other Sources 95

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Executive Summary

Childrenswear represents a fast-growing sector of the UK clothing industry. Since 1991, the retail market has grown by over 60 percent, and in 2001, there was an increase of 5.1 percent, to £5.57bn. The three main sectors covered in this report are girls' and boys' clothing for children aged up to 14 years old, and infants' clothing for newborn babies up to 2 year-olds.

Childrenswear has evolved from being a homogenous product to a diverse part of the fashion industry, offering premium-priced products and catering for every sector of the market, from budget-priced basics to the latest designer labels.

Market growth over the past 2 or 3 years to 2002 has been attributed mainly to the continued influence of fashion, with almost every designer and top fashion retailer launching their own children's couture. The main buying force is from 9 to 14 year-olds, or `tweenagers', who are more financially independent and fashion conscious, and are heavily influenced by pop celebrities and sports personalities.

During 2001, the retail sector became increasingly sophisticated, with the growing involvement of the large grocery chains. During the 4 years to 2002, ASDA Group Ltd, Tesco PLC and J Sainsbury PLC have all launched new branded collections. ASDA has been particularly successful with its `George at ASDA' range, while Sainsbury's linked up with the specialist Childrenswear retailer Adams, to open in-store concessions. Sainsbury's also signed up the top fashion designer Jeff Banks, to launch a new fashion range. In autumn 2002, Tesco will launch a range of casual clothing in partnership with the Cherokee fashion label.

Value discount retailers have been a success, and have begun to move upmarket, e.g. Matalan offers a more fashionable choice in new attractive environments. Although the mid-market retailers, e.g. High Street specialists and variety and department stores, have been the most affected, they have fought back by investing in new refit programmes and by increasing store quality, while also becoming more customer focused.

Despite a shrinking child population, relatively healthy growth is expected in the UK Childrenswear market over the 4 years to 2006. Key Note forecasts that the market will expand over the period 2002 to 2006.

Text © 2002Key Note

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Last updated by Amanda Porteous July 2002